🛒 The Happy Camper Shop is now open — leisure batteries, solar, heaters, awnings & more Shop now →
Happy Camper Repairs

North West & North Wales caravan, motorhome, static caravan, lodge & park home support

NCC ApprovedMobile & WorkshopInsurance ApprovedRepairs & claimsGas Safe RegisteredCertified engineers
Type 2, 1950 to 1967 · Joints at the factory seams · Our own bodyshop in St Helens

VW Split-screen restoration the most valuable Transporter, restored so the repairs read as original

Outriggers, cargo floors, battery trays, front panels and cab steps welded in the right places, period two-tone paint in our own booth, Westfalia and Devon interiors refinished, and air-cooled engines rebuilt on the same road.

A Split-screen is the one camper where how the repair is done matters as much as that it is done. We place the joints where the factory seams were, use full sections rather than patches, keep the brightwork, badges and interior wherever they can be saved, and photograph every stage, because that record is part of what the van is worth when it is finished. Quoted stage by stage, paused whenever you need.

VW Split-screen restoration, explained

What restoring a Type 2 Split involves, and why originality changes the method

A Split-screen restoration is the same seven stages as any camper, done to a different standard of care, because on a van worth what a good Split is worth the method affects the value. That means full sections rather than patches, joints placed at the factory seams, period-correct paint mixed to an unfaded sample, original brightwork and interior kept wherever they can be saved, and every stage photographed so the next owner can see how it was done.

  • Full sections, factory seamsOutriggers, cargo floor and sill sections replaced in full with the joints where Volkswagen put them, so the repair disappears once it is painted
  • Period paint, period methodColours matched from an unfaded panel rather than a code, single-stage finishes where the period calls for it, and the two-tone break set from the original seam
  • Originality keptBadges, brightwork, lights, the interior furniture and the colour break kept and refurbished, because a modernised Split loses value fast
  • Photographed throughoutEvery repair before it is sealed, every stage as it finishes, because on a Split the record is part of the van

The stages are the same as on any restoration and each has its own page: rust repair and welding, bodywork and resprays, interior refurbishment, pop-top and canvas, electrical restoration and the mechanical stage, with the restoration hub putting them in order. The VW campervan restoration page covers the later Transporters, and the Bay Window page covers the van that replaced this one.

Own bodyshopWelding, paint, trim and electrics under one roof in St Helens
From £95+ VAT an hour, quoted stage by stage in writing
1950 to 1967Every Split variant, panel van conversions included
24 yearsClassic VWs and leisure vehicles, 4.9★ on Google
Where a Split-screen rots

Eight places we probe before quoting a Split

A Split rots from the inside out and from underneath, and every one of these is hidden until the trim, the interior and the underseal come off. A shiny outer sill on a Split tells you nothing at all.

01Outriggers

The box sections that carry the body off the chassis. Blocked drains fill them from inside, and they rot where no inspection ever looks.

02Cargo floor

Under the interior, especially the edges where the floor meets the sill flange and around the seat and belt mounts.

03Battery tray

Acid, heat and sixty years. The tray corner goes first, then the panel behind it and the chassis rail underneath.

04Cab step and front panel

The step takes water and feet, and the panel under the windscreen takes everything the road throws at it. Damp cab floors nearly always start here.

05Inner and outer sills

The inner sill and the closing panel behind it go long before the outer shows a bubble, which is why a probe matters more than a photograph.

06Lower corners and valances

The front and rear lower corners, the valance behind the bumper, and the panel under the rear lights.

07Wheel arches

Inner and outer, and the lip where mud sits. Old filler here is nearly universal on an unrestored Split.

08Doors and cargo door bottoms

Door skins and the bottoms of the cargo doors, with the drain holes blocked by decades of underseal.

What the strip and assess tells you about a Split. On a van of this value the assessment is worth having even if you never do the work, because it tells you exactly what you own.

Photographs of every seamTrim, interior and underseal off, so you see the real state of the structure
A quote by repairEach section listed by location, with the panel and the hours, and the structural work first
A value verdictWhat the van is worth as it stands, and what the restoration would realistically cost
A method noteWhere the joints will go and what will be kept original, agreed before any metal is cut
A Split-screen restoration, stage by stage

Seven stages, and what each one means on a Split in particular

The order is the same as any camper. What differs on a Split is how much care each stage takes and how much of the van is worth keeping rather than replacing. Tap a stage for what happens on a Split, what it decides, and what stays original.

Stage 1 of 7

Strip and assess

Interior, trim, glass and underseal off, every box section probed and photographed.

What happens on a Split

Everything comes out, including the interior, because the cargo floor and the outriggers cannot be judged with furniture on top of them. Every seam is probed and the findings photographed and mapped.

What it decides

The whole quote, and whether the van is a straightforward rebuild or a bigger project than it looked. On a Split the difference is usually the outriggers.

What stays original

Nothing is thrown away. Everything removed is bagged, labelled and photographed in position first.

Stage 2 of 7

Rust and welding

Outriggers, floors, sills and the front end, in full sections at the factory seams.

What happens on a Split

Rot is cut back to bright steel and full pattern sections let in, with the joints placed where Volkswagen seamed the van so the repair disappears under paint. Outriggers are replaced rather than patched.

What it decides

Whether the van is structurally sound for another fifty years, and whether the repairs will stand up to informed scrutiny when it is sold.

What stays original

Any panel with sound metal stays. We repair a section rather than replace a whole panel where the original steel allows it.

Stage 3 of 7

Bodywork and paint

Panels straightened, gaps set, period colour in our own booth.

What happens on a Split

Old filler comes out, panels are straightened and the gaps set with the doors on. Then prep, primer and the colour, in a single-stage period finish or a modern system, with the two-tone break from the original seam.

What it decides

How the van reads. A Split with the wrong colour break or a modern metallic looks wrong to anyone who knows them.

What stays original

Badges, brightwork, lights and lenses come off, are refurbished and go back on. New rubbers throughout.

Stage 4 of 7

Pop-top or roof

Westfalia and Devon roofs, hinge mounts, canvas and seals.

What happens on a Split

Where the van has an elevating roof, the hinge mounts are repaired, the seams sealed and new canvas fitted in the right pattern. A tin-top Split gets its roof seams and gutters sorted instead.

What it decides

Whether the van stays dry, which on a Split matters because the cargo floor underneath is the expensive part.

What stays original

The roof mechanism and fittings are repaired rather than replaced, and Westfalia parts are still available in the correct pattern.

Stage 5 of 7

Interior and trim

Westfalia, Devon or panel van interior repaired and refinished.

What happens on a Split

Original carcasses are repaired where sound, re-veneered or refinished, seats and beds re-upholstered in period fabric, headlining and flooring renewed, and everything goes back exactly where it came from.

What it decides

How the inside reads, and a good chunk of the value. A period interior refinished beats a new one on a Split every time.

What stays original

As much as possible. Cabinets, catches, hinges, the table, the layout. Only ply that has gone is replaced.

Stage 6 of 7

Electrics

Loom repaired or replaced while the shell is empty.

What happens on a Split

With the interior out and the panels off, the original loom is repaired in sections where the copper is sound or replaced in full with a correct-pattern loom, the earths renewed and the fuse box replaced.

What it decides

Whether the van starts, lights and charges reliably, and whether the next owner can follow the wiring.

What stays original

The routing and the colours. A correct-pattern loom looks right under the bonnet as well as working.

Stage 7 of 7

Mechanical and MOT

Brakes, steering, suspension and an air-cooled engine rebuild next door.

What happens on a Split

Brakes, steering and suspension rebuilt on our ramp, and the air-cooled engine assessed and, where the compressions say so, rebuilt by our sister garage on the same road before final assembly and the road test.

What it decides

Whether it drives as well as it looks. A Split with a rebuilt front end and a fresh engine is a genuinely lovely thing to drive.

What stays original

The engine number and the original specification wherever the rebuild allows, because matching numbers matter on a Split.

Most Splits here are restored over two or three years, one stage at a season, and used between the paint stage and the interior. The order never changes so nothing is undone, and the photographic record builds up as it goes.

The six jobs on a Split

What arrives in the bodyshop, and what leaves

Six jobs cover nearly every Split-screen restoration, and each is done in a way that suits a van of this value. The photograph on each card is a van in the bodyshop or the part the job belongs to.

VW T25 Transporter rear quarter outside the workshop

Outriggers and chassis

What arrives

Box sections full of water from blocked drains, rotted from inside, sometimes with a plate tacked over the evidence by a previous owner.

What leaves

New outrigger sections let in at the factory seams, seam-sealed, primed and cavity-waxed, with the drain holes cleared so it never happens the same way again.

Rust repair and welding →
Classic Commer camper in the bodyshop with a technician inspecting the front panel

Cargo floors and battery trays

What arrives

Floor edges gone where they meet the sill flange, seat and belt mounts corroded, and a battery tray corner eaten by sixty years of acid.

What leaves

Full floor sections and a new battery tray welded in, mounts reinstated to the original positions, and the whole underside sealed and protected.

Welding and floors →
Classic Ford Transit camper in the bodyshop before bodywork and paint

Front panels and cab steps

What arrives

A cab step that has been repaired badly at least once, a front panel rusted along the bottom, and a damp cab floor that started at both.

What leaves

Step and panel sections made or bought and let in properly, the cab floor repaired, and the water path dealt with so the new metal stays dry.

Damp and water ingress →
Rapido motorhome on a driveway during bodywork repair

Period two-tone paint

What arrives

Faded original paint, a previous blow-over in the wrong shade, or a colour break set an inch out by someone who did not know.

What leaves

Prep, primer and colour in our own booth, matched from an unfaded panel, with the two-tone break taken from the original seam and the brightwork refitted.

Bodywork and resprays →
Technician rebuilding the interior units of a VW Bay Window camper through the side door

Westfalia and Devon interiors

What arrives

Swollen cabinet bases from a damp cargo floor, split period vinyl, a bed that no longer folds, and missing catches.

What leaves

Carcasses repaired and refinished, period upholstery remade, correct catches and hinges sourced, and the layout put back exactly as the converter built it.

Interior refurbishment →
Engineer inspecting a vehicle on a driveway with the bonnet up

Air-cooled engines

What arrives

Low compressions, oil pressure that drops when hot, and an engine that has been apart before with parts that do not match its number.

What leaves

Assessed on our ramp, rebuilt by our sister garage on the same road where the measurements say so, refitted, set up and road tested.

Mechanical restoration →

A Split is the one van where we will talk you out of work as often as into it. Original paint that is sound is worth more than a respray, an original interior beats a rebuilt one, and a patinated van that is made structurally sound can be worth more than a shiny one. We give you that view at the assessment. Send photographs on WhatsApp and see the classic camper restoration page for how we treat originality generally.

What a Split restoration costs

How a Split-screen is priced, and what makes it different

The rate is the same as any restoration. What differs on a Split is that the standard is higher, the panels are plentiful but not cheap, and the interior is usually worth restoring rather than replacing. Every figure excludes VAT, which is added at 20%.

Bodyshop labour£95+ VAT / hr

Welding, bodywork, paint, roof, trim and electrics, the same rate for every stage, shown as hours per stage on the quote.

Strip and assessBring it in

The first stage, quoted as hours and told to you when you book. On a Split it also gives you a straight view of what the van is worth as it stands.

We come to you£89+ VAT

A look at the van where it stands, anywhere in the North West and North Wales, with no mileage charge.

Staged paymentPer stage

Each stage invoiced when it is finished and photographed. Most Splits are restored over two or three years.

StageWhat decides the hours on a SplitWhat it adds to the van
WeldingHow far the outriggers, cargo floor and inner sills have gone, and how many previous repairs have to be undone firstStructural soundness and the confidence of any future buyer. The single biggest line on nearly every Split
PaintWhether the original paint is sound enough to keep, and whether the two-tone break and colour need matching from an unfaded panelA correct period finish. The wrong colour on a Split costs value rather than adding it
InteriorHow much of the Westfalia or Devon furniture can be saved and refinished rather than remadeMore than the work costs, if it is kept original. This is where restoring beats replacing
EngineCompressions and oil pressure, and whether the engine number matches the vanDrivability, and matching numbers where they still match. Quoted by our sister garage

The restoration cost page sets out the worked examples and everything that moves a quote. Ring 0300 124 6982 with photographs of the outriggers and the cargo floor and we will tell you what you are looking at.

How a Split restoration runs

From the first photo to the handover, in four steps

A Split is rarely a quick job and it is nearly always worth doing properly. The process is the same as any restoration, with more care at each stage and a photographic record that stays with the van.

01Send photos

Outriggers, cargo floor, battery tray, cab step and front panel, plus the year and the conversion. We reply with an honest first view and a date.

02Strip and assess

Interior, trim, glass and underseal out, every box section probed, and an itemised quote by stage with a straight view of the van’s value.

03Work in stages

You approve a stage, we do it, you get the photographs and the invoice for that stage, and you can pause for a season before the next.

04Road-ready handover

Brakes, steering, the engine and the road test, then a handover with the photographic record, the paperwork and the paint code.

Four things you get with a finished Split.

A full photographic recordEvery repair before it was sealed and every stage as it finished, which is what a Split buyer expects to see
Paperwork and codesInvoices by stage, the paint code and sample, the wiring diagram and the parts record
One bodyshopMetal, paint, trim and electrics under one roof, with the air-cooled engine along the road
Guaranteed workEverything we quote is guaranteed for 12 months

The full sequence and the stopping points are on the campervan restoration page. Thinking of buying a Split rather than restoring one? A campervan pre-purchase inspection puts a probe into the outriggers at the seller’s address, which on a Split is the difference between a good buy and a very expensive one.

Our own bodyshop

Restored in St Helens, collected from anywhere in the North West and North Wales

Every stage happens in our own bodyshop on Boundary Road in St Helens: welding, paint, trim and electrics, with our sister garage on the same road for the air-cooled engine. Bring the van yourself, or we collect it by trailer, which is how most Split projects arrive.

Classic Bedford CF camper in the Happy Camper bodyshop

The bodyshop, 230 Boundary Road, St Helens WA10 2PZ

Ten minutes from junction 7 of the M62 and a short run from the M6 and M57. Come and look at a Split with its floor out before you commit to yours.

  • Welding bay, paint booth, trim shop and ramp under one roof
  • Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 12:30pm
  • Air-cooled engine rebuilds via Fastlane Group on the same road
Call to book an assessment
VW California in the workshop, North Wales job

Collection from your address

A Split that has not run since the 1980s comes in on the trailer, and we would rather move it than have you drive it on sixty-year-old brakes. Across the North West and the whole of North Wales.

  • Collection quoted with the assessment, no mileage banding
  • We need the keys, the V5 and somewhere the trailer can reach
  • Send the postcode and a photograph of where it is parked first
WhatsApp the postcode

Every town has its own campervan restoration page, and the map further on carries all thirty-two. Not listed? We still collect. See every area we cover, or the regional pages for the North West and North Wales.

Where a finished Split gets seen

Eight places a Split belongs, and thirty-two towns we collect from

Yellow pins are where the region’s Splits gather and get photographed, each with what that place asks of a sixty-year-old van. Navy pins are the towns we collect from, each with its own campervan restoration page. Hover or tap a pin.

ManchesterLiverpoolPrestonChesterLlandudnoSnowdoniaLake DistrictLlŷn Peninsula
Splits gather hereTown we collect from
Sefton coast · Splits gather here

Southport and the Marine Drive

Classic vehicle events on the wide promenades, half an hour from the bodyshop. Sand and salt in every seam on the way home, so the cavity wax matters.

Split project near here? We collect from this area every week and quote after the strip.

Campervan restoration Southport →

Every town on the map:Manchester, Liverpool, Preston, Warrington, Chester, Wigan, Blackpool, Bolton, Stockport, St Helens, Southport, Lancaster, Kendal, Windermere, Keswick, Morecambe, Wrexham, Llandudno, Conwy, Rhyl, Prestatyn, Bangor, Caernarfon, Beaumaris, Holyhead, Pwllheli, Abersoch, Porthmadog, Llanberis, Barmouth, Dolgellau, Bala. Somewhere else in the North West or North Wales? Send the postcode on WhatsApp. Once it is finished, a yearly campervan service keeps the underside and the cavity wax right.

Send us the Split

WhatsApp us photos of the outriggers, cargo floor and cab step, and the year

Three things and someone from the bodyshop comes back with an honest first view, what the stages would be, and a date for the assessment. On a Split the first view is worth having before you buy as well as before you restore. No forms, no call centre.

Get a Split quote

Tell us about the Split and where it is

Year, whether it is a Westfalia, a Devon or a panel van conversion, what you know of its history, and photographs of the outriggers, cargo floor, battery tray, cab step and front panel. Ring 0300 124 6982 in opening hours, or send it on WhatsApp.

  • Our own bodyshop in St Helens, collection across the North West and North Wales
  • Labour from £95 + VAT an hour, panels quoted separately, every stage in writing
  • Joints placed at the factory seams, and a photographic record kept for the van
Before you pay

Buying a caravan, motorhome or campervan? Get it inspected before you pay.

An independent engineer at the seller, dealer or park, anywhere in the North West and North Wales. Damp, gas, electrics and the rest tested, written photo report the same day, from £179 + VAT.

Your questions answered

VW Split-screen restoration FAQs

How much does a Split-screen restoration cost?
A Split is priced stage by stage at £95 + VAT an hour plus panels, and the welding is nearly always the biggest line, because the outriggers, cargo floor and inner sills are what sixty years and blocked drains do to a Type 2 and none of it shows until the interior and underseal come out. A van needing sills and a floor section is a very different proposition from one needing every outrigger, and the strip and assess is what separates them. Panels are plentiful for the Split, which keeps the hours reasonable for what is being replaced. Each stage is quoted and invoiced separately and most Splits here are restored over two or three years. Ring 0300 124 6982 with photographs of the outriggers and the cargo floor, or read the restoration cost page for the worked examples.
Where does a VW Split-screen rust first?
The outriggers and the cargo floor, both hidden under the interior, followed by the battery tray, the cab step, the front panel and the inner sills, and by the time anything bubbles on the outside the structure underneath has usually been going for years. The outriggers are the box sections that carry the body off the chassis, and they fill with water through blocked drains and rot from the inside where nothing ever looks. The cargo floor goes at its edges where it meets the sill flange and around the seat and belt mounts. A shiny outer sill proves nothing, because the inner sill and closing panel behind it go first. That is why the assessment takes the interior out rather than judging from photographs. The rust repair and welding page covers how the repairs are made and where the joints go.
Do you place the welded joints where the factory seams were?
Yes, on a Split the joints go where Volkswagen seamed the van, using full pattern sections rather than patches, so that once the van is painted the repair is invisible and an informed buyer sees a properly restored structure rather than a series of plates. It takes longer than cutting a patch to fit and it is the whole difference between a restoration and a repair on a van of this value. Where the original steel above a repair is sound we keep it and repair a section rather than replacing a whole panel, because original metal is worth keeping. Every repair is photographed before the seam sealer goes on, so the record shows exactly what was done and where. That record goes with the van and it matters when it is sold. The classic camper restoration page covers how we approach originality across the marques.
Should I keep the original paint on a Split?
Where the original paint is sound, very often yes, because an honest original-paint Split can be worth more than a resprayed one and the patina cannot be put back once it has gone; what it still needs is the structure underneath made sound, and that can be done without touching the outside. Welding is done from inside and underneath where possible, repairs are primed and undersealed rather than painted, and where a new panel has to show it is finished to sit quietly against the old paint. The surface rust is treated and sealed so it stops where it is. Where the paint has been blown over badly at some point, or the colour is wrong for the year, a period respray in the correct shade with the two-tone break from the original seam adds value rather than losing it. We give you our honest view at the assessment. See the bodywork and resprays page for the paint options.
Can you rebuild the air-cooled engine as well?
Yes, through our sister garage Fastlane Group on the same road, with the assessment done first on our ramp: compressions and oil pressure measured and the cases, crank, barrels and heads inspected, so you get a straight answer on whether it needs a service and a tune or a full rebuild. On a Split the engine number matters, because matching numbers add value, so where the original engine can be rebuilt it is rebuilt rather than swapped. A tired air-cooled engine that is serviced, tuned and given fresh tinware and heat exchangers runs well for years; a worn one needs opening up and everything measured. The van moves along Boundary Road for the engine and comes back for final assembly, the fuel and ignition set-up and the road test. Matching numbers, the correct tinware and a properly set-up carburettor are what separate a Split that drives beautifully from one that merely runs. See the mechanical restoration page and Fastlane Group.
Do you restore Westfalia and Devon Split interiors?
Yes, and on a Split it is nearly always worth restoring rather than replacing: the carcasses are repaired where the ply is sound, re-veneered or refinished, the seats and bed re-upholstered in period fabric, and the correct catches, hinges and fittings sourced through the specialist network. What usually has to be replaced is the ply at the base of the units, because it has been sitting on a damp cargo floor, and that is dealt with once the floor is welded, sealed and dry. Everything is photographed and labelled in position as it comes out so it goes back exactly where the converter put it. A period interior refinished is worth more on a Split than a beautifully made new one, which is not true of a T4 or T5. The interior refurbishment page covers the trim shop and the Westfalia and Devon pages cover those conversions.
How long does a Split-screen restoration take?
A full bare-metal Split rebuild is a project measured in months rather than weeks, and most owners here spread it over two or three years, one stage a season, using the van between the paint stage and the interior. The welding is what takes the time, because full sections at factory seams take longer than patches and the outriggers have to come out from underneath with the body supported. Panels are available quickly for the Split, so parts rarely hold the job up. What does add time is a van that has been badly repaired before, because undoing that comes before doing it properly. The order of stages never changes, so nothing done in year one is undone in year three, and the photographic record builds as it goes. The restoration hub sets out the stages and the stopping points.
Is a rusty Split-screen still worth restoring?
Usually yes, and more often than with any other camper, because the finished value of a good Split supports a level of work that would be uneconomic on a Bay or a T25, and because full pattern sections exist for nearly every part of the structure. The honest exceptions are a van that has been very badly repaired before, where undoing the previous work costs more than the metal, and a van whose identity is questionable, which is worth checking before you buy. What tips it is how much original steel remains, whether the interior and brightwork are there, and whether the paperwork is right. We give you that verdict at the assessment with photographs, and we would rather say so than restore something you will regret. A pre-purchase inspection answers the same question before you buy, and the cost page covers the sums.
Will a restored Split-screen pass an MOT?
A Split first registered before 1967 is exempt from the MOT test unless it has been substantially changed, but it is still prepared to test standard here, because exemption is not the same as safe on a van with sixty-year-old brakes and steering. The structural welding is done to be seen and passed regardless, and the brakes, steering, suspension, lights and tyres are all brought up to standard at the mechanical stage. Most Split owners have the van tested voluntarily for the paperwork, particularly if it is going to be sold or insured on an agreed-value policy. The test itself is booked with our sister garage on the same road, so the van does not have to travel for it. Note that a substantially changed vehicle loses its exemption, which is worth knowing before fitting anything unusual to the running gear or the chassis. See the mechanical restoration page and the welding page.
Can you collect a Split that has been stored for decades?
Yes, and we would rather collect it than have you drive it: a Split that has stood for years has brakes that will not stop it and steering with sixty years of play, so it comes in on the trailer from anywhere in the North West and North Wales with no mileage charge. We need the keys if they exist, the V5 if there is one, and a photograph of where the van is parked so we know the trailer can reach it, and it helps to know whether the wheels turn. Farm and barn storage across Cheshire and the Welsh border is where most of the region’s unrestored Splits still are, and we are in those areas regularly. If you would rather we looked at it first, a visit where it stands is £89 + VAT and comes with an honest view of whether it is worth moving. See every area we cover.
What should I check before buying a Split-screen project?
The outriggers, the cargo floor and the inner sills, with a probe rather than your eyes, plus the paperwork and the chassis number, because those five things decide whether a Split is a project or a money pit and none of them are visible in an advert photograph. Fresh underseal is the classic warning sign, because it is applied to hide as often as to protect. Filler in the arches and along the sills is another. Then the identity: the chassis number, the V5 and the history, which on a van of this value matter as much as the metal. We do exactly that check as a campervan pre-purchase inspection at the seller’s address, with a written report the same day, from £179 + VAT. It has talked plenty of buyers out of vans and into better ones. Ring 0300 124 6982 before you travel to see one.
Do you work on other Split variants and panel vans?
Yes, panel vans, Kombis, Microbuses, Samba variants and pick-ups all come through the bodyshop, along with the camper conversions, and the metalwork is the same on all of them because they share the same structure underneath. What differs is trim, glass and interior: a Samba has its skylights and extra brightwork, a panel van has none of the camper furniture, and a pick-up has its own bed and dropsides. Conversions from panel vans are common and we are happy to restore the shell and fit an interior, though on a genuinely original van we will always say what the effect on value is likely to be first. The VW campervan restoration page covers the whole Transporter family and the camper conversion page covers building an interior into a shell. Ring 0300 124 6982 with the chassis number and we will tell you what you have.
Scroll to Top