Caravan and motorhome roof repair, traced to where the water gets in
The stain on your ceiling is where the water came out. It almost never got in there.
Leaking rooflights, failed seams, lifted trims, sagging panels and ceilings marked by water, on touring caravans, motorhomes, campervans, statics and lodges, repaired where the vehicle stands. We find the entry point before we quote, because sealing the stain fixes nothing. Written price first, twelve-month guarantee.
Which roof are we talking about?
Three completely different constructions get called “a caravan roof”, and they fail in different ways, on different timescales, for different money. Pick yours.
Touring caravan roofs
A bonded sandwich panel, not a covering you can lift off.
What it is made of
A thin aluminium or GRP skin bonded to an insulating core, usually over a timber or aluminium frame. It is structural: the roof helps hold the shape of the van, which is why water in it matters far more than water in a shed roof.
What fails first
Sealant, every time. The awning rail, the rooflight surrounds, the front and rear panel joints and the edge trims all rely on mastic that hardens and shrinks with age. Hail and low branches dent the skin, and a dent that cracks the coating lets water sit in it.
What we do
Trace the entry point with meter readings, strip and re-bed the failed joint or rooflight, and renew any framing the water has already reached. Small panel splits can be patched and re-sealed; a badly cracked skin is a panel job.
Most touring roofs are repairable long after owners assume they are scrap, and the deciding factor is the frame underneath rather than the skin you can see.
Motorhome and campervan roofs
Often GRP, sometimes with a dozen things screwed through it.
What it is made of
A moulded GRP or bonded panel roof, frequently carrying a solar panel, an air conditioner, a satellite dome, a roof vent, an aerial and a set of roof bars. Elevating roofs on campervans add a fabric canvas and a lifting mechanism.
What fails first
The penetrations. Every one of those fittings is a hole through a waterproof surface, and it is the bedding compound under the mounting foot that fails, not the fitting. Coachbuilt overcab joints and the seam where the roof meets the sides are the other usual suspects.
What we do
Lift and re-bed the fitting properly rather than running a bead of sealant round the outside of it, which traps water instead of shedding it. Re-seal seams, treat crazed GRP, replace perished elevating-roof canvas and check the timber around the aperture.
Roof bars and solar frames fitted with self-tapping screws into a bonded panel are the single most common cause of a motorhome roof leak we attend.
Static caravan and lodge roofs
A shallow or bowed sheet roof with a protective coating.
What it is made of
Profiled or flat sheet on a light frame, finished with a coating, with the joints, trims and every penetration sealed. Older vans may have a felt-and-bitumen or single-ply covering that has been over-painted more than once.
What fails first
The coating chalks, then crazes, and stops shedding water. Seams and trims open. Rooflights go brittle and yellow, and their surrounds perish. Gutters fill and push water down the wall instead of away from it, which reads as a wall problem.
What we do
Clean back, cut out and remake failed seam and trim sealant, treat corrosion, then re-coat the whole roof rather than patching one area. Rooflights and vents get replaced and properly bedded. Split or corroded sheet gets replaced.
Re-coating a sound sheet roof costs a fraction of re-sheeting, and the honest test is whether the sheet itself is intact once the failed coating is cleaned off.
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Seven places water gets into a roof
Water almost never enters where the stain appears. It gets in at a joint, runs along the inside of the structure and drops through at the first low point it finds, which is often several feet away and on the other side of the van.
- 1
Rooflight and vent surrounds
The most common single source. The plastic goes brittle and yellow, and the surround perishes where it meets the roof. A gale then lifts it.
- 2
The awning rail
A horizontal joint on a curved surface, taking load every time an awning is up. Water gets behind it and tracks down inside the wall.
- 3
Seams, trims and edges
Where two panels meet, or where the roof turns down to the side. The sealant under the trim fails long before the trim looks wrong.
- 4
Anything screwed through the roof
Solar panels, aerials, satellite domes, roof bars and air conditioners. The bedding under the mounting foot fails, not the fitting itself.
- 5
The front and rear joints
On a coachbuilt motorhome the overcab joint flexes on every journey. On a tourer, the front and rear panel joints do the same at speed.
- 6
Gutters and downpipes
Blocked gutters push water across the fascia and down the wall. It reads as a wall or window leak and gets chased in the wrong place.
- 7
The coating itself
On a static, once the finish chalks and crazes it stops shedding water. The roof is then wet for longer after every shower.
This is why sealing the stain does nothing. We take meter readings across the ceiling and walls to map how far the wet area really extends, then inspect every joint, penetration and trim above it until the entry point is found. Only then is it worth quoting a repair.
Three honest options, and when each one is right
Owners are usually quoted one of these without being told the other two exist. The right answer depends on whether the structure under the covering is sound, and on how long the van has left where it stands.
Repair the entry point
When the roof is generally sound and one joint, rooflight or fitting has failed.
- What it involves
- Strip the failed joint back to clean surface, renew any timber or framing the water has reached, then re-bed and re-seal properly. On a tourer or motorhome this is the great majority of roof work.
- How long it lasts
- Done properly, as long as the surrounding sealant has left in it, which is usually several years. It is not a patch if the entry point was actually found.
Re-coat the whole roof
When a static or lodge roof has chalked and crazed but the sheet underneath is intact.
- What it involves
- Clean the surface thoroughly, cut out and remake every failed seam and trim, treat any corrosion, then apply the coating system properly with attention to each penetration.
- How long it lasts
- Years rather than seasons, and considerably longer if the gutters are kept clear so the roof is not sitting wet after every shower.
Replace the covering
When the sheet is split or corroded through, or water has been getting in long enough to reach the structure.
- What it involves
- Remove the old covering, repair or renew the framing and insulation underneath, then re-sheet and re-seal. On a touring caravan the equivalent is panel replacement.
- How long it lasts
- The longest-lasting answer and the most expensive. On a unit near the end of its pitch agreement it is often the wrong spend, and we will say so.
What the sign you can see usually means
Roof leaks are diagnosed wrongly more often than almost anything else on a caravan, because the evidence appears a long way from the cause. These are the seven we are called out to most.
Roof repair prices
Every figure is a from price and excludes VAT at 20%. Roof work is quoted after somebody has been up and looked, because quoting a coating or a leak from a photograph helps nobody.
- £89Call-out, from
- £95Labour per hour, from
- £179Damp report, from
- £179.95Habitation check, from
Rooflights, vents, seam and trim resealing, gutter renewal, coatings and re-sheeting are all quoted by the job once the roof has been inspected. Where a leak has already reached the framing or the floor, that work is quoted separately so you can see what the water cost and what the roof cost.
Send a photo of the stain and of the roof
Two pictures do most of the work: the mark on the ceiling and the roof above it. That is usually enough for an engineer to say whether it is a rooflight, a seam, a rail or a coating that has come to the end of its life, and whether it is a repair, a re-coat or something bigger.
Roofs we have put right
Photographed by the engineer on the day, on drives, pitches and parks across the North West and North Wales. Every job priced in writing first.






What owners ask us about roofs
Taken from what people actually type into Google before they ring us, including the ones based on a misunderstanding.
How much does caravan roof repair cost?
Can a caravan roof be repaired, or does it have to be replaced?
Why is my caravan roof leaking when it looks perfectly sound?
There is a brown stain on my ceiling. Is the hole directly above it?
Do caravans have roof tiles?
My static caravan is leaking around a roof vent. Can that be fixed?
Can you repair a motorhome roof at my home, or does it have to come in?
How long does a static caravan roof coating last?
Is a leaking roof covered by insurance?
What does static caravan roof replacement actually involve?
Can I go up and look at the roof myself?
How soon can you come out, and where do you cover?
Buying a caravan, motorhome or campervan? Get it inspected before you pay.
An independent engineer at the seller, dealer or park, anywhere in the North West and North Wales. Damp, gas, electrics and the rest tested, written photo report the same day, from £179 + VAT.
Related work
A roof leak is rarely just a roof leak by the time anybody rings us. These are the pages owners need next.

Damp repair
Where a roof leak has already reached the walls, floor or framing, this is the work that follows.
Damp repair →
Habitation checks
The annual inspection that catches a failing seal in the year it costs very little to put right.
Habitation checks →
Static caravan repair
Roofs, cladding, glazing, boilers, decking and damp on statics and lodges, on your pitch.
Static caravan repair →
Touring caravan servicing
Full habitation and running gear service, with the rails and rooflights checked as part of it.
Touring caravan servicing →
Motorhome servicing
Habitation servicing for motorhomes and campervans, including every roof-mounted fitting.
Motorhome servicing →
North West
Everything we do across the North West, for every type of leisure vehicle.
North West →