🛒 The Happy Camper Shop is now open — leisure batteries, solar, heaters, awnings & more Shop now →
Happy Camper Repairs

North West & North Wales caravan, motorhome, static caravan, lodge & park home support

NCC ApprovedMobile & WorkshopInsurance ApprovedRepairs & claimsGas Safe RegisteredCertified engineers
Our own trim shop · Period-correct or your own layout · Gas and electrics certified

Campervan interior refurbishment cabinets, bed, trim and headlining, rebuilt to original or to how you actually travel

Tired Devon, Danbury and Westfalia interiors, split vinyl, sagging headlining, damp ply and a bed that no longer folds. Remade in our own trim shop with the gas and electrics that live inside it checked and certified.

The inside of a camper is the part you live with. We rebuild or refit the cabinets, mount the rock-and-roll bed to the floor properly, re-upholster, re-line and re-floor, and finish with curtains and lighting, either faithful to the period layout or built around your own, with the gas and 12V behind the panels done by the people who are certified to do it. Quoted in writing, item by item.

Campervan interior refurbishment, explained

What an interior refurbishment covers, and why it comes after the metal and the roof

A campervan interior refurbishment is everything you touch inside the van: the cabinets and worktops, the rock-and-roll bed and its mounting, the seat and bed upholstery, the headlining, the flooring, the curtains and blinds, and the gas, water and 12V that live behind the panels. It is done last in a restoration, after the welding, the roof and the paint, because there is no sense fitting new ply into a van that is still letting water in.

  • Kept where it can beOriginal Devon, Danbury and Westfalia furniture is repaired and refinished where the carcass is sound, because the period interior is part of what the van is worth
  • Remade where it cannotNew cabinets built to the original pattern, or to your own layout, from marine ply with proper edge banding, on a floor that has been sealed and dried first
  • Mounted to the floor properlyA rock-and-roll bed bolted through to the floor with spreader plates, not into the ply, because a bed carries people while the van is moving
  • Certified behind the panelsGas pipework, the hob and heater, and the 12V loom inside the furniture done by Gas Safe registered engineers and signed off

The interior is the final stage of a campervan restoration and the one most owners look forward to, which is exactly why it has to wait. A soft floor means the welding comes first. A leaking elevating roof means the pop-top and roof stage comes first. Fresh paint needs a week to harden before the panels go back against it. The wiring inside the cabinets is planned with the electrical restoration so the furniture is only fitted once. What you get at the end is an interior that works on a wet Tuesday in Snowdonia, not just in a photograph.

Own trim shopCabinets, upholstery and trim under one roof in St Helens
From £95+ VAT an hour, materials and fittings listed item by item
Period or yoursFaithful to the original layout, or built around how you use it
24 yearsCamper interiors and leisure vehicles, 4.9★ on Google
An interior from strip-out to handover

Six steps between an inside you avoid and one you want to sit in

An interior has an order too: out, dry, wire, build, trim, fit. Get it wrong and the cabinets come out twice. Tap a step for what happens, what it decides, and what you choose at that point.

Step 1 of 6

Strip out and record

Every cabinet, panel and trim piece out, photographed and labelled.

What happens

The interior comes out in the order it went in, and everything is photographed and labelled, because on a Devon or a Westfalia the original positions and fixings matter. Damp ply, soft floor and the state of the loom behind the panels are recorded.

What it decides

What can be kept and what has to be remade, and whether the floor needs the welding stage before anything goes back.

Your choice at this point

Whether to keep the original layout or change it. This is the last point to decide, because the wiring is planned from it.

Step 2 of 6

Dry, seal and floor

Floor dried, treated and sealed, new sub-floor where it has gone.

What happens

Moisture readings are taken at every wall and the floor, the entry point is dealt with at the metal or roof stage, and the floor is dried, treated and sealed. A rotten sub-floor is replaced with new marine ply, bonded and screwed to the sound metal beneath.

What it decides

Whether the new interior lasts. Ply on a damp floor is the commonest reason a refurbishment fails inside two years.

Your choice at this point

The floor covering: period lino, modern vinyl plank, or the original pattern reproduced.

Step 3 of 6

Wire and pipe

12V loom, lighting, sockets, water and gas run before the furniture goes in.

What happens

The loom is run and labelled while the panels are off, the leisure battery, charger, lights and sockets positioned around the layout, water pipework run, and the gas pipework installed and tested by Gas Safe registered engineers.

What it decides

How usable the finished van is. Every socket, light and switch is where you actually reach for it, because it was planned before the cabinets went in.

Your choice at this point

Where the power goes: lights, USB, 240V hook-up sockets, a fridge, a heater, and whether solar is being fitted at the same time.

Step 4 of 6

Build or repair the cabinets

Original units repaired and refinished, or new carcasses built to pattern.

What happens

Original cabinets with a sound carcass are repaired, re-veneered or refinished. Where they are past it, new units are built in the trim shop from marine ply to the original pattern or to your layout, with proper edge banding and catches that stay shut on a Welsh road.

What it decides

The look and the feel of the inside. This is where a period interior stays period, or where a modern layout gets its worktop and its storage.

Your choice at this point

Original pattern or your own layout, timber finish or laminate, and whether the hob, sink and fridge stay where they were.

Step 5 of 6

Upholster, line and trim

Seat and bed foam and covers, headlining, door cards and curtains.

What happens

New foam cut to the original profile, covers made in the trim shop in period vinyl or a fabric you choose, the headlining replaced, door cards remade and curtains or blinds fitted. The rock-and-roll bed is checked for its folding action before it is covered.

What it decides

How the van feels to sit and sleep in, and whether it looks right in the marque’s colours.

Your choice at this point

Fabric, vinyl or a mix, the colour, and whether the curtains are period pattern or plain.

Step 6 of 6

Fit, test and hand back

Everything back in, gas and electrics tested and certified, van handed over.

What happens

The interior goes back in against the cured paint, the bed is bolted through the floor with spreader plates, the gas system is pressure tested and certified, the 12V is load tested, and every door, catch and drawer is checked.

What it decides

Whether it is finished. The gas certificate and the wiring diagram go home with the van.

Your choice at this point

Nothing to decide. It is fitted until it works.

A partial interior, a new bed and covers, a headlining, or a set of cabinet doors, follows the same order on those parts only. It is quoted item by item, so a van with a good original interior and one tired bed gets a bed, not a rebuild.

The six jobs inside a camper

What arrives in the trim shop, and what leaves it

Six jobs cover nearly every campervan interior we refurbish, and each has its own way of being done right. Most vans need three or four of them; a few need a bed and nothing else.

Classic VW split-screen camper in the Happy Camper bodyshop with a technician checking the front arch

Cabinets and worktops

What arrives

Swollen ply, doors that do not shut, a worktop lifting at the edge, and units that have been screwed to the wall by three previous owners in three different places.

What leaves

Original units repaired and refinished where the carcass is sound, new ones built to pattern or your layout where it is not, fixed to the sound structure with catches that hold.

Cabinets and units →
Campervan roofs with solar panels and rooflights in storage

Rock-and-roll bed

What arrives

A bed that will not fold, a frame screwed into ply that has gone soft, foam gone flat, and no belt anchorage worth the name.

What leaves

Frame repaired or replaced, bolted through the floor with spreader plates, new foam to the original profile, and covers made in the trim shop.

Beds and seating →
Two pop-top campervans with the roofs raised

Headlining and roof lining

What arrives

Sagging, stained and mouldy where the roof has been letting water in, with the elevating-roof canvas in the same state.

What leaves

Replaced after the roof has been sealed at the pop-top stage, in period perforated vinyl or a modern lining, with the roof bed trimmed to match.

Pop-top and canvas →
Moisture meter reading taken inside a campervan to find where water is getting in

Damp floor and sub-floor

What arrives

A soft patch by the sliding door, a musty smell, and ply that crumbles when the lino comes up.

What leaves

Readings taken, the entry point fixed at the metal or roof stage, the floor dried and sealed and a new marine-ply sub-floor bonded down before any furniture goes back.

Damp and water ingress →
Victron MPPT solar controller and DC-DC charger installed in a campervan electrical locker

12V, lighting and sockets

What arrives

A leisure battery wired straight to the starter, lights on the wrong circuit, and a fuse box that has melted once already.

What leaves

The loom run and labelled while the panels are off, leisure battery and charging fitted, lights and sockets where you reach for them, all tested and drawn up.

Electrical restoration →
Engineer and owner at a gas locker during a safety check

Gas, hob, heater and water

What arrives

A hob on rubber hose that has perished, a heater nobody has lit in a decade, and water pipework that leaks into the cabinet base.

What leaves

Gas pipework, hob and heater installed and pressure tested by Gas Safe registered engineers, water pipework replaced, and the certificate handed over with the van.

Gas safety check →

Every one of these is priced on its own, so an owner with a sound original interior and one problem gets that one problem fixed. The classic camper restoration page covers how we treat original Devon, Danbury and Westfalia furniture, and the camper conversion page covers a layout built from scratch in an empty van. Send photographs of the inside with every door open on WhatsApp.

Layouts and interiors we work on

Twelve interiors we know inside out, and what each one asks of the trim shop

Every conversion has a layout and a set of quirks, and knowing them is the difference between an interior that goes in once and one that goes in twice. Twelve we see most, from the factory conversions to the layouts owners ask for now.

VW Type 2Devon Moonraker and Caravette

Full-width rear seat bed, buffet unit behind the driver, a sink and hob under the side window. Carcasses are usually sound; veneers and catches are not.

VW Type 2Danbury

Side-facing seats that make up into a bed, units on the offside, and a folding table. The seat bases are the first thing to rot.

VW T25Westfalia Joker and California

The bench bed, the wardrobe over the engine and the swivel front seats. Westfalia hinges and catches are still available and worth keeping.

VW T25Autosleeper and Holdsworth

British high-top conversions with a rear kitchen. The high-top lining and the rear seat frame are the usual jobs.

VW T4 and T5Rear-kitchen conversions

A rock-and-roll bed with a kitchen pod behind it and a wardrobe on the rear. The pod is remade to the original footprint or to a new one.

VW T4 and T5Side-kitchen conversions

Units along the offside with the bed across the back. The bed mount and the fridge ventilation are what usually need putting right.

Bedford CFAutosleeper, Dormobile and coachbuilt

Larger, with a rear dinette and a full kitchen. Coachbuilt floors and the timber frame behind the walls decide the job.

CommerAutosleeper and Highwayman

Front dinette, rear kitchen, and a lot of original vinyl. Kept period wherever the foam and the frames allow.

Ford TransitMk1 and Mk2 conversions

Big interiors with room for a proper wardrobe and a dinette. Floors and the seat frames are the usual finds.

DormobileAny base

The side-hinged roof and its bunks are the job, along with the cabinets that were built round the roof mechanism.

ModernYour own layout

A layout designed round how you travel: where you cook, where you sleep, what you carry. Built in marine ply with the electrics planned first.

Day vanSeating and a bed, nothing else

A rock-and-roll bed, a small unit and the lining, for an owner who wants a van that works as a van in the week.

If your conversion is not on the list, it is still welcome. Send photographs of the inside and tell us what you want it to do. The VW campervan restoration page covers the whole Transporter family in one place.

What an interior costs

How a campervan interior is priced, item by item

Every interior is quoted from the strip-out, in writing, with each job listed separately: the bed, the cabinets, the upholstery, the headlining, the floor, the electrics and the gas each as their own line with the hours and the materials. Labour is the same rate for every job. All figures exclude VAT, which is added at 20%. Timber, foam, fabric, vinyl, fittings and appliances are quoted at what we pay plus our margin.

Trim shop labour£95+ VAT / hr

Cabinet making, upholstery, lining, flooring and fitting, the same rate for every job and every marque, shown as hours on the quote.

Strip-out and recordBring it in

Quoted as hours like any other step and told to you when you book. Photographs and the itemised quote come with it.

We come to you£89+ VAT

A look inside where the van stands, anywhere in the North West and North Wales, when it cannot be moved or you want a view before collection.

Materials and fittingsQuoted separately

Marine ply, foam, vinyl or fabric, catches, hinges, lino and any appliances listed against the job they belong to.

JobWhat decides the hoursWhat is on the quote
Rock-and-roll bedWhether the frame can be repaired or needs replacing, the state of the floor it bolts to, and the foam and coversFrame, mounting, foam and covers as separate lines
CabinetsHow many units can be kept, whether the layout is changing, timber or laminate finish, and how many doors, drawers and catches there areEach unit listed, repaired or new, with the materials
Upholstery and headliningThe number of cushions and covers, vinyl or fabric, and whether the headlining is a flat panel van or a high-top with a roof bedFoam, covers and lining as separate lines with the fabric priced
Electrics and gas insideHow far the loom has to go, how many lights and sockets, and whether the hob and heater are being kept, replaced or added12V items listed individually; gas pipework, appliances and the certificate as their own lines

No mileage charge on collection or a visit. Work we quote is guaranteed for 12 months. The restoration cost page explains how the interior sits inside a full restoration, or ring 0300 124 6982 with the marque and photographs of the inside.

Booking an interior

From the first photo to the handover, in four steps

A bed and covers can be turned round in a couple of weeks. A full interior on a van whose floor and roof have already been done is a matter of weeks, and one that needs the welding and roof stages first is planned so those run straight into the trim shop. We give you the timeline at the strip-out.

01Send photos

The inside with every door open, the bed, the headlining, the floor by the door, and what you want the van to do. We reply with what looks keepable and a date.

02Strip out and quote

The van comes into the trim shop, by trailer if you prefer. Everything out and labelled, the floor and roof checked, and a quote item by item in writing.

03Build, trim and wire

You approve the items you want, the floor is dried and sealed, the loom and gas go in, the cabinets are repaired or built and the upholstery made.

04Fit, certify and hand back

Everything back in against the cured paint, gas and 12V tested and certified, every catch and drawer checked, and the van handed back with the paperwork.

Four things you get with the van, whatever the scope.

A photo recordEvery unit before, out and back in, which is what a buyer wants to see on a period interior
Certificates and a diagramThe gas certificate and a 12V wiring diagram for everything behind the panels
One trim shopCabinets, upholstery, lining, floor, gas and electrics by the same team, so nothing is fitted twice
Guaranteed workInterior work we quote is guaranteed for 12 months, including the bed mounting and the catches

The interior is the last stage in the sequence on the campervan restoration page, and it is planned alongside the electrical restoration so the loom goes in before the furniture. Buying a van with a lovely interior? A campervan pre-purchase inspection lifts the lino and meters the walls before you fall for it.

Our own trim shop

Built in St Helens, collected from anywhere in the North West and North Wales

The trim shop is part of our own bodyshop on Boundary Road in St Helens, next to the welding bay and the paint booth, so an interior that has to wait for the metal and the paint is built while they happen and fitted the week the paint has cured. Bring the van yourself, or we collect it by trailer.

Classic Bedford CF camper in the Happy Camper bodyshop

The trim shop, 230 Boundary Road, St Helens WA10 2PZ

Ten minutes from junction 7 of the M62 and a short run from the M6 and M57. Come and see an interior being built and choose your fabric in daylight.

  • Trim shop, welding bay and paint booth under one roof
  • Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 12:30pm
  • Gas Safe registered engineers on site for the pipework and appliances
Call to book a strip-out
Happy Camper van on a job in Cheshire

Collection from your address

A van that is not on the road, or one you would rather not drive with the interior half out, comes in on the trailer. Across Merseyside, Cheshire, Greater Manchester, Lancashire and the Lakes, and the whole of North Wales.

  • Collection quoted with the strip-out, no mileage banding
  • We need the keys, the V5 and somewhere the trailer can reach
  • Send the postcode and a photograph of where it is parked first
WhatsApp the postcode

Every town has its own campervan restoration page, and the map further on carries all thirty-two. Not listed? We still collect. See every area we cover, or the regional pages for the North West and North Wales.

Where the interior earns its keep

Eight places a rebuilt camper gets slept in, and thirty-two towns we collect from

Yellow pins are the places our customers take a finished interior first, each with what that place asks of the inside of a van. Navy pins are the towns we collect from, each with its own campervan restoration page. Hover or tap a pin.

ManchesterLiverpoolPrestonChesterLlandudnoSnowdoniaLake DistrictLlŷn Peninsula
Sleep here firstTown we collect from
Lake District · sleep here first

Windermere and Ambleside

Wet weekends are where an interior earns its keep: a dry floor, a heater that lights, a bed that folds without a fight. Ventilation matters too, because four people in a Bay in the rain is a lot of moisture.

Van near here with an interior past saving? We collect from this area every week.

Campervan restoration Windermere →

Every town on the map:Manchester, Liverpool, Preston, Warrington, Chester, Wigan, Blackpool, Bolton, Stockport, St Helens, Southport, Lancaster, Kendal, Windermere, Keswick, Morecambe, Wrexham, Llandudno, Conwy, Rhyl, Prestatyn, Bangor, Caernarfon, Beaumaris, Holyhead, Pwllheli, Abersoch, Porthmadog, Llanberis, Barmouth, Dolgellau, Bala. Somewhere else in the North West or North Wales? Send the postcode on WhatsApp. Once it is built, a yearly habitation check keeps the gas, water and damp readings where they should be.

Send us the inside

WhatsApp us photos of the interior with the doors open, the marque and the layout you want

Three things and someone from the trim shop comes back with what looks keepable, what needs remaking, and a date for the strip-out. No forms, no call centre.

Get an interior quote

Tell us what the inside is like and what you want it to be

Marque, year, the layout you have now, the layout you want, and photographs of every cabinet, the bed, the headlining and the floor by the door. Ring 0300 124 6982 in opening hours, or send it on WhatsApp and the trim shop replies first thing.

  • Our own trim shop in St Helens, collection across the North West and North Wales
  • Labour from £95 + VAT an hour, timber, foam, fabric and fittings quoted item by item
  • Gas and 12V inside the interior done by Gas Safe registered engineers and certified
Before you pay

Buying a campervan? Get it inspected before you pay.

An independent engineer at the seller, dealer or park, anywhere in the North West and North Wales. Damp, gas, electrics and the rest tested, written photo report the same day, from £179 + VAT.

Your questions answered

Campervan interior refurbishment FAQs

How much does a campervan interior refurbishment cost?
A campervan interior is quoted item by item after a strip-out, at £95 + VAT an hour for the trim shop plus the timber, foam, fabric and fittings, so a bed and covers and a full interior with new cabinets, lining, floor, gas and electrics are priced the same way but land a long way apart. What moves the hours is how much of the original furniture can be kept, whether the layout is changing, and how far the wiring and gas inside the cabinets have to go. A Devon interior with sound carcasses is refinished; one with swollen ply is remade to the same pattern. Each job is listed separately on the quote so you can do the bed now and the cabinets next year. Ring 0300 124 6982 with the marque and photographs of the inside, or read the restoration cost page for how the interior sits inside a whole restoration.
Can you keep the original Devon, Danbury or Westfalia interior?
Yes, wherever the carcass is sound the original furniture is repaired, re-veneered or refinished rather than replaced, because on a Split, a Bay or a T25 the period interior is a large part of what the van is worth and a reproduction never quite reads the same. What usually goes is the ply at the base of the units where the floor was damp, the seat bases, the catches and the hinges, and those are replaced with the right pattern parts while the rest is kept. Where a unit is past saving it is remade to the original drawing in the same material and finish, so the interior stays consistent. Westfalia hinges, catches and fittings are still available and worth keeping. Everything that comes out is photographed and labelled so it goes back where the factory put it. The classic camper restoration page covers how we approach originality on each marque, and the Westfalia restoration page covers that conversion in detail.
Can you fit a rock-and-roll bed properly?
Yes, and properly means bolted through the floor into the sound metal beneath with spreader plates, never screwed into the ply, because a rock-and-roll bed carries people while the van is moving and a bed that is only fixed to the floorboard is a bed that is not fixed at all. The floor is checked first, and if it is soft at the mounting points that is a welding stage job before the bed goes near it. A new frame is chosen for the van’s width and the belt arrangement you want, or the original frame is repaired if it is sound, and the folding action is tested before the foam and covers go on. Covers are made in the trim shop to the profile of the frame in vinyl or a fabric you choose. We will tell you honestly if a bed cannot be mounted safely in a particular van, which happens on some coachbuilt floors. The campervan repair team also fits beds into vans that are not being restored.
Do you do the gas and electrics inside the interior?
Yes, the gas pipework, hob, heater and water are installed and pressure tested by Gas Safe registered engineers, and the 12V loom, leisure battery, lights and sockets are run and labelled while the panels are off, so the certificate and the wiring diagram go home with the van. It is the reason the interior is planned before it is built: the loom goes in first, the sockets and lights are positioned where you reach for them, and the gas run is kept short and accessible with the drop-out vents where they should be. A hob on perished rubber hose and a leisure battery wired straight to the starter are the two things we find most often in a camper that has been through several owners. Solar can be fitted at the same time so the charging is sized to what the new interior runs. The electrical restoration and gas safety check pages cover each side, and a habitation check each year keeps them right.
Can you change the layout rather than copy the original?
Yes, an interior can be built to your own layout in marine ply with the electrics planned first, and it suits a T4, T5, Transit or self-build where there is no period interior to protect and the van is for how you travel now rather than how somebody travelled in 1974. The conversation starts with what you do in the van: where you cook, where you sleep, what you carry, whether a fridge, a heater and a hook-up socket are on the list. From that we draw a layout, position the loom and the gas, and build the units to fit the van rather than to a catalogue. On a valuable Split or Bay we will tell you honestly if a layout change would hurt what the van is worth. A layout built from scratch in an empty van is the camper conversion service, and the two overlap where an old interior comes out and a new one goes in. Send a sketch on WhatsApp.
What do you do about a damp floor before the new interior goes in?
The floor is dried, treated and sealed before any ply goes near it, the entry point is fixed at the welding or roof stage, and a rotten sub-floor is replaced with new marine ply bonded and screwed to the sound metal, because ply on a damp floor is the commonest reason a refurbishment fails inside two years. Moisture readings are taken at every wall, the floor and the base of each cabinet as the interior comes out, and recorded as numbers you keep. A soft patch by the sliding door usually means water has been running down inside the door and sitting under the lino; a musty smell with no obvious source usually means the roof seam. Both are found and dealt with before the trim shop starts. The damp and water ingress page covers how the water gets in, and the welding page covers what happens when the floor has rusted through as well as rotted.
Can you re-upholster the seats and replace the headlining?
Yes, seat and bed foam is cut to the original profile, covers are made in the trim shop in period vinyl or a fabric you choose, door cards are remade, and the headlining is replaced in perforated vinyl or a modern lining after the roof has been sealed, so the new lining is not stained by the old leak. Upholstery on its own is one of the commonest jobs we do on a van whose cabinets are fine: flat foam, split vinyl and a sagging headlining are what make a camper feel tired, and they are quoted as their own items. Period patterns and colours for the VW conversions are still available, and a modern fabric can be matched to a paint colour if the van is being resprayed at the same time. The headlining waits for the pop-top and roof stage on a van with an elevating roof, because the canvas and the roof seals are done first. Bring the van, or send photographs of the seats and the lining.
How long does an interior refurbishment take?
A bed and covers are usually inside a couple of weeks, a full interior on a van whose floor and roof are already sound is a matter of weeks, and one that needs the welding and roof stages first is planned so those run straight into the trim shop rather than leaving the van stripped and waiting. The strip-out sets the timeline, because it is the point we find out what can be kept, what the floor is like and how far the loom has to go. Cabinets are built while the paint cures, fabric is ordered as soon as you have chosen it, and the fitting week is booked once the floor is dry. What slows a job down is changing the layout after the wiring has gone in, so the layout is the last decision we ask you to make before the build starts. We give you the timeline in writing with the quote, with photographs as each part is done. See the campervan restoration page for the full sequence.
Do you collect campervans for interior work, and from how far?
Yes, we collect by trailer from anywhere in the North West and North Wales with no mileage banding, quoted with the strip-out, and an interior job is one of the easier ones to collect because the van does not need to be roadworthy to come in. We need the keys, the V5 and a photograph of where it is parked so we know the trailer can reach it. Merseyside, Cheshire, Greater Manchester, Lancashire and the Lakes on one side, and the whole of North Wales from Wrexham along the coast to Anglesey and the Llŷn on the other. If you would rather we looked inside before committing to a collection, a visit to the van where it stands is £89 + VAT and it is a good way to choose the fabric with the van in front of you. See every area we cover, or ring 0300 124 6982 with the postcode.
Is it worth refurbishing the interior of an old campervan?
Usually yes, because the interior is the cheapest of the restoration stages to get right and the one that changes how the van feels most, and on a VW Type 2 or a T25 a correct period interior adds more to the value than it costs. The honest exceptions are a van whose floor and shell need the welding stage first, where the interior has to wait and the budget may be better spent on the metal, and a later panel van with a poor conversion where a fresh layout is better than a repair of the old one. We tell you which yours is at the strip-out, before anything is ordered. What tips it is the state of the carcasses, whether the layout still suits you, and what the van is going to be used for. A day van needs a bed and a unit; a family touring van needs the lot. The classic camper restoration page covers what each marque’s interior is worth keeping.
Can you fit a fridge, heater or hook-up as part of the interior?
Yes, a compressor fridge, a diesel or gas heater, a 240V hook-up with an RCD and sockets, and a leisure battery with a proper charger are all fitted as part of the interior, planned into the layout before the cabinets are built so the ventilation, the wiring and the gas run are right first time. A fridge needs its ventilation and a decent 12V feed; a heater needs its fuel line, its exhaust route and a place to put warm air where you sleep; a hook-up needs an inlet, an RCD and a charger that suits the battery. All of that is easier to get right with the panels off than to bolt on afterwards, which is why the interior and the electrical restoration are quoted together. Gas appliances are installed and certified by Gas Safe registered engineers. Solar to match the new battery is the solar installation service and is done at the same time where you want it.
Which campervans do you refurbish interiors on?
All of them: VW Split-screens, Bays, T25s, T4s, T5s and Westfalias, Bedford CFs, Commers, early Ford Transits, the Devon, Danbury, Dormobile and Autosleeper conversions built on them, and the modern panel-van conversions and self-builds that come through the trim shop every week. Each conversion has a layout and a set of quirks we know: the Devon buffet unit, the Danbury seat bases, the Westfalia wardrobe over the engine, the Dormobile roof bunks, the rear-kitchen pod on a T4. Knowing them is the difference between an interior that goes in once and one that goes in twice. Every marque has its own page, from the VW Split-Screen to the Dormobile, and the VW campervan restoration page covers the Transporter family in one place. If yours is not listed, ring 0300 124 6982: Bedford CAs, J-types and Toyota Hiaces have all been in.
Scroll to Top